Yorkshire Dales Inn Way 2008

Introduction

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This is a photo guide to the Yorkshire Dales Inn Way which we walked in May 2008.

This page contains full details of all stages, or you can use the links on the right to view each individual stage. We have also collected together details of the accommodation we stayed in.

We hope it will be of some use to those who may be planning to do the walk themselves, or encourage others to give it a try.

Please enjoy our report, and sign our guestbook or leave comments.

Rachael & Mark.

Day 1 - Grassington to Buckden

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14.5 miles, 8 1/2 hours (including pub visits)

We arrived in Grassington on Saturday afternoon after a busy day visiting friends in York on the way up from Suffolk. Our evening was spent having a meal in the Devonshire Arms, the first of the 26 pubs. After a good nights sleep and a filling breakfast at Springroyd House B&B we were fully refreshed to begin our walk.

We set off at 9.30 from the market square and headed up the hill and out of the village, following the well trodden route of the Dales Way. As we reached the second field a few spots of rain began so out came the waterproofs.

Grassington disappeared quickly behind us, swallowed up by the mist. The area of limestone pavement was brightened up with the occasional daffodill still in flower.

We soon felt we had entered the heart of the Dales landscape. As we rounded the edge of Grass Wood there were good views of the limestone escarpment. From here the path followed high above Dib Beck with the valley dropping quickly away below into the ravine.

We took a more gradual descent to reach Conistone.

Conistone is a lovely little village with limestone cottages surrounding a tall maypole in the centre. It was raining more steadily by the time we got here, but that didn't deter from its prettiness.

We crossed the bridge over the River Wharfe and walked through the meadows of the flat valley floor with Kilnsey Crag dominating the view ahead.

1.Tennant Arms, Kilnsey - 11:00am

Comfortable friendly spacious bar. We enjoyed a cup of coffee.

The route then took us along a stretch of road past Kilnsey Crag and on into Littondale.

Leaving the road behind we returned to the riverside meadows as we approached Hawkswick.

We saw lots of Swaledale sheep and lambs along our walk. They would often stop and watch us as we passed by, some even posed for the camera!

We crossed the River Skirfare into the pretty hamlet of Hawkswick. There was then a pleasant walk along the river through the meadows into Arncliffe village.

2.The Falcon, Arncliffe - 1:00pm

Interesting and unusual pub. A very small bar with beer served from a jug. It was very busy on this wet day but we squeezed on to a bench in the hallway and enjoyed a ham and cheese roll.
This was also the original Woolpack Inn from Emmerdale.

Refreshed from our beer and roll we continued along Littondale passing Scoska Wood, following the river. The water level was very low, clearly showing the limestone river bed.

3.Queens Arms, Litton - 2:50pm

A very cosy pub with low beams. Brews their own range of real ales. We tried the Litton Ale, and Leading Light.

There was a steady climb out of Litton on a clear bridle track headed up towards the summit of Birks Fell. This was the hardest part of the days walk. Rather than being rewarded by expanding views of Littondale, they became less and less as we progressed into mist.

The final section of the day was a descent into Wharfedale to reach Buckden. The initial clear cairned path gave way to more gentle route across the moor lower down, eventually reaching a track leading to the road.

Our Bed and Breakfast for the night was at Romany Cottage with Gwen and Tim Berry. We had stayed here previously on our Dales Way walk.

4.Buck Inn, Buckden - 7:30pm

A spacious pub with lots of seating areas. Good basic pub food.

Day 2 - Buckden to Askrigg

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14.5 miles, 8 1/2 hours (including pub visits)

We set off from Romany Cottage after a very good breakfast at 9.30 in bright sunshine. The path on birks fell that we had arrived on was clearly visible across the valley.

The path headed steeply up on a stoney track out of Buckden through Rakes Wood, lined by patches of primroses. There were great views along Wharfedale towards Hubberholme.

As we progressed higher the open hillside provded more extensive views of Upper Wharfedale.

The path levels off as it turns away from Wharfedale, following high above Cray Gill.

We took a short, steep, slippery detour down to Cray to cross Cray Gill via stepping stones to reach the White Lion pub.

5.White Lion Inn, Cray - 10:30am

Too early in the day, the pub wasn't open

From the pub we walked up the road for a short while rather than climbing back up the slippery path. Cray Gill was flowing well from the rain the previous day and provided a good display of little waterfalls.

Leaving the road, the path climbed steadily up Gilbert Lane track, a good bridleway over Stake Moss. It was very quiet and remote here, with nothing but moor all around.

After passing over the top of Stake Moss we left the track and exposed moorland to head along a grassy path towards Shaw Gate Gill and Cragdale. It was easy pleasant walking as the path was clear and firm. Though still warm and sunny, distant views were starting to become hazy.

We descended into Raydale, passing through the small village of Stalling Busk. There were good views down towards Semer Water.

The path from Stalling Busk took us past the ruined 17th century church. We stopped to have look around, but didn't linger long as it was very busy with a large walking group.

This section of the path around the lake was very enjoyable. The banks were covered with large numbers of flowers, including Primroses, Celandines and Violets. The narrow path passed through tunnels of trees with the occasional open view across the lake made a very good place to stop for our packed lunch.

Seeing such a large expanse of water in the dales was quite different to what we had seen so far on the route. Leaving Semer Water behind we followed down the River Bain which showed signs of recent flooding. Parts of the path would have been impassable judging by the height of debris washed up against the fences and stiles. Fortunately we had no problems.

As we reached Bainbridge the river had doubled in size. We joined the road to walk into the village, passing a large green. As this was Bank Holiday Monday the roads were very busy with passing motorbikes and cars, quite a startling change from the peace and quiet of the moors earlier in the day.

6.Rose and Crown, Bainbridge - 3:30pm

Sat outside overlooking the green. A nice, very old pub with a smokey coal fire burning inside.

Retracing our route back out of Bainbridge, we climbed up to Brough Scar and walked along a lovely path in woods high above the Ure Valley. Here we saw a deer in the trees, dashing away ahead of us.

7. Victoria Arms, Worton - 5:00pm

A very unusual pub with lots of mounted animal heads. A small bar set in a corner of the farmhouse.

We returned through Worton village and took the path alongside the River Ure via Nappa Mill to Nappa Hall. There wasn't much of the hall to be seen from the path, but the subsequent approach to Askrigg through the traditional Dales fields was lovely.

Askrigg is a really idyllic Dales village. It was used as the location for Darrowby in All Creatures Great and Small. It boasts a rather grand church in the centre of the village.

Our bed and breakfast for the night was Thornsgill House where we received a warm welcome with tea and biscuits.

8.Kings Arms, Askrigg - 8:30pm

Very smart pub with several original features. Very comfy restaurant with excellent food.
Featured in All Creatures Great and Small as the 'Drovers Arms'

9.Crown Inn, Askrigg - 10:00pm

Nice traditional beamed pub. Good selection of beer.

Day 3 - Askrigg to Reeth

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13.5 miles, 8 hours (including pub visits)

We spent a little while having a final look around Askrigg in the morning sunshine. At 10am we set off up the very steep road out of the village, with frequent stops looking back across Wensleydale towards Addlebrough hill.

The final climb brought us up over a cattle grid and the road levelled off onto Askrigg Common. With views all round of the open wild moorland it no longer felt as though we were walking along a road, especially with so little traffic.

The road became a gated track as it branched off along the top of Oxnop Scar and over Satron Moor. Ahead we had our first glimpses of Swaledale.

As we began to descend, the views opened out down over Oxnop Gill and further along into Swaledale.

A friendly Swaledale lamb in Swaledale.

As we descended into Swaledale there were great views up the valley towards Muker and Thwaite. The valley was a patchwork of little fields with numerous hay barns dotted among them.

We crossed the River Swale over the picturesque Ivelet Bridge, a tall packhorse bridge.

The path took us through a series of fields with narrow gated wall gaps on the approach to Gunnerside. Some of these were a tight squeeze with large bags.

By now the day had really warmed up and we were looking forward to a nice drink at the pub in Gunnerside.

10.Kings Head, Gunnerside - 1:00pm

Unfortunately not open for lunch today. We stamped our log book and continued on.

The sun was shining well which provided great views back across the river towards Gunnerside as we continued down Swaledale. Shortly afterwards we stopped for our packed lunch and to admire the scene.

Fording Haverdale Beck was quite tricky. The water wasn't too high, but the surface underneath was extremely slippery. Walking poles saved us from falling over!

We climbed up through a series of fields and rejoined the road at Birks End Farm. After a short while we were back on to the moors where there were continuous cries from the lapwings all around. This was lovely walking along the contours high above Swaledale.

We sat on the moor side and enjoyed the sunshine and fantastic views for almost an hour before continuing down in to Reeth.

After a thoroughly enjoyable day we arrived in Reeth at 6:00pm and headed to Ivy Cottage, our B&B for the night.

11.Buck Inn, Reeth - 7:50pm

Dark wooden, low beamed bar. A quiet and relaxed pub with a nice view out over the green.

12.Kings Arms, Reeth - 9:30pm

Very smart bar, staff very welcoming.

13.Black Bull, Reeth - 9:50pm

Extremely busy, popular pub. Several benches out on the front looking over the green.

Day 4 - Reeth to West Burton

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12.5 miles, 7 1/4 hours (including pub visits and detour to Aysgarth Falls)

Another bright sunny day as we set off from Reeth at 9:45am. We left the village passing by the church and headed through fields towards Grinton, following the route of the Coast to Coast path.

We enjoyed our final views of the River Swale as we crossed the bridge into the village of Grinton.

14.Bridge Inn, Grinton - 10:00am

Closed at the time we passed, and no clipper attached to the board outside.
We returned later in the week on our way home for some lunch, and to get our log book signed. A very nice pub, with an interesting sheep on the roof!

It was a long steady climb out of Grinton, initially on road and later on to moorland path. All around there was evidence of the lead mining history of this stretch of moor, with spoil heaps and hushes. Reeth became smaller as we reached the top of Greets Hill.

From Greets Hill we joined a shooters track and descended in to Apedale. Apedale Beck was a refreshing change to the open expanse of moorland, with the gentle sound of the running water and views along the valley.

The track continued up the other side of Apedale and over the top of Black Hill. It was nice easy walking, especially in the fine weather.

As we left the moor behind we crossed a large open grassy hillside dotted with flowering gorse bushes. The descent towards Castle Bolton brought us back into Wensleydale.

We followed an enclosed track down into Castle Bolton. The sides were lined with gorse in full flower, with a wonderful intense scent.

The castle dominated the head of the village green as we emerged from the track. The first impression was of a ruined shell, but as we passed around to the east side the castle was well preserved.

The castle remained in view behind us for a long time as we passed through farm land. Again we squeezed through several small gates with our bags. Some of the gates were more improvised than others.

We arrived at Carperby through the edge of East End farm. Lots of cockerels ran free through the yard, and in the surrounding gardens. It must be noisy around here in the mornings!

15.The Wheatsheaf, Carperby - 2:00pm

Nice quiet comfortable bar. Tables outside at the front where we sat for a refreshing drink.

On leaving Carperby we walked through several small traditional Dales hay meadows with their corner barns.

Freeholders Wood was lovely with a mass of wood anemones and bluebells carpeting the way. Through the trees we could hear that we were approaching Aysgarth falls.

We took a short detour off route to visit the middle and lower falls. They provided an impressive series of water cascades. The edge of the lower falls was a perfect place to stop for our packed lunch. We could have sat for hours in the afternoon sunshine hypnotised by the water.

16.Palmer Flatt Hotel, Aysgarth - 4:20pm

Closed, but looked a nice pub.

The church at Aysgarth was impressive, surrounded by a colourful variety of trees.

From Aysgarth it was a gentle walk across more fields and meadows to reach West Burton.

West Burton is an idyllic village with cottages set around a very large green. It was very peaceful, with children playing hide and seek on the green and no traffic passing through. We soon found our bed and breakfast for the night, which was also the next pub.

17.Fox and Hounds, West Burton - 5:00pm

A lovely central location overlooking the village green. Good range of beer and friendly staff.

We had a walk around in the evening to see the waterfall tucked away at one end of the village.

Day 5 - West Burton to Kettlewell

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14.5 miles, 7 3/4 hours (including pub visits)

We left West Burton at 9:45 on another bright sunny morning. The school children were sat out on the green for their lesson as we passed up the road. We followed the road along the pretty wooded Walden valley, gradually gaining height above the beck.

After a mile and a half along the lane we turned off onto a good bridletrack climbing up to White Hill. After the initial steady climb, the track flattened off to the level ground of Fleensop Moor, with Harland Hill rising up nearby.

We forded the stream of Fleemis Gill as it dropped into a little ravine.

We left the clear track to cross Horsehouse Moor, now following an indistinct path. This would not be so easy to follow in bad weather, but fortunately we had a perfect day.

Gradually the path descended from Horsehouse Moor into Coverdale to reach Horsehouse village.

18.Thwaite Arms, Horsehouse - 12:10pm

Lovely quiet pub with a small bar. Excellent beer garden out behind the pub. We enjoyed a nice toasted sandwich and a beer for our lunch.

This was such a pleasant spot that we took off our boots and contemplated staying for the rest of the afternoon. Eventually we moved on again, with more miles to be completed.

From Horsehouse we walked alongside the River Cover, following it upstream through farmland until emerging on to the road near Cover Bridge.

This road section continued on for 3 miles, with little change in the view along the valley. The climb though not that steep was quite tiring due to the warm day and lack of breeze.

Eventually we reached Hunters Stone, which signalled that we would soon return to footpaths again.

Crossing over the moor we arrived at Cam Head, from where we could clearly see down towards Wharfedale.

A clear enclosed track from here led down the hillside towards Wharfedale. The valley gradually came closer, periodically disappearing as the track dipped into a hollow.

As we neared the end of the track we had a great view down on to Kettlewell. From this point the track got steeper, and became rougher underfoot with slippery loose rock. Rachael took a tumble, perhaps hoping to roll the rest of the way!

It was 5:30 when we arrived at our B&B, Littlebeck. We had a warm welcome with a cup of tea from Caroline & Paul who had walked the Inn Way themselves.

In the evening we strolled around the village, and visited the two pubs which were open.

19.Kings Head, Kettlewell - 7:20pm

Closed, just clipped our log book.

20.Racehorses Hotel, Kettlewell - 7:30pm

Nice large pub with good food.

21.Bluebell Inn, Kettlewell - 9:30pm

Busy, friendly pub. Cosy atmosphere.

Day 6 - Kettlewell to Grassington

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13.5 miles, 7 3/4 hours (including pub visits)

We left Kettlewell at 10:15 and headed out of the village climbing steeply up a track on to Conistone Moor.

The path took on a more gradual ascent as it passed through a series of fields. This was a very quiet section, with only a few grazing sheep to be seen.

The green pasture gave way to rougher moorland grasses as we progressed towards the summit of Capplestone Gate. Around the summit there were signs of the old mines in the area, with several tracks and spoil heaps. There were extensive views across the dales from the summit.

The path took us down towards Conistone through a pretty area of limestone pavement to rejoin a section of the Dales Way. The route suddenly became busy with people appearing from all directions.

We skirted above The Dib, a dry limestone valley which drops steeply down to Conistone.

Turning back up the hillside, there were lots of little wild pansies and violets dotted around, adding some colour among the grass.

A good track led to Yarnbury, another large site of lead mining history. The landscape beyond this point was scarred by numerous spoil heaps and pits, and the occasional remains of mine workings.

We followed Hebden Beck, flowing away from the mines towards Hebden. There were lots of rabbits in this area, deciding that taking up residence in the mines was easier than creating their own burrows perhaps.

22.Clarendon Hotel, Hebden - 3:30pm

Sat outside on the benches to enjoy a drink. Quiet at this time of day.

We followed the lane through the pretty village of Hebden down to the River Wharfe. The water was very still giving perfect reflections of the trees along the river banks.

Some of the stepping stones looked a little bit uneven so we crossed using the swaying suspension bridge.

We climbed up the steep bank away from the river on the other side and took a moment to enjoy the view back over to Hebden (while getting our breath back)

After passing through the small village of Thorpe on little lanes we walked down a footpath through fields to reach Linton. This is a very pretty village with a beck flowing through the large green.

23.Fountaine Inn, Linton - 5:15pm

Very smart pub. Busy both inside and out.

At Linton Falls we crossed the River Wharfe for the final time. The water rumbled over the rocks below the bridge. The noise was quite a contrast to the tranquility of the crossing a little further down at Hebden.

An enclosed paved track led up from the river to reach the edge of Grassington and the end of a very enjoyable and memorable walk.

We returned to the same B&B where we had spent our first night in Grassington, Springroyd House.

24.Black Horse Hotel, Grassington - 7:30pm

Busy outside when we arrived, but quiet indoors. Nice friendly pub with good food.

25.Foresters Arms, Grassington - 9:00pm

Busy bar, plenty of outside tables.

26.Devonshire Hotel, Grassington - 9:30pm

Very nice pub with several seating areas. We enjoyed the food on our first night in Grassington. Just needed to collect our final stamp today.

Accommodation

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A list of all the accommodation we used including contact details and web sites.

1.Grassington
Springroyd House, 8a Station Road, Grassington BD23 5NQ

Contact:
Brian and Pauline Robertshaw
Tel: 01756 752473
Web: www.springroydhouse.co.uk
Grid Ref: SE 001 639
Distance from route: 500 ft
Cost: £56 - double, en-suite room

Comments:
A very clean and comfortable room. Friendly welcome. Ideally located for start and finish point.

2.Buckden
Romany Cottage, Buckden, Skipton BD23 5JA

Contact:
Tim and Gwen Berry
Tel: 01756 760365
Web: www.romanycottage.co.uk
Grid Ref: SD 942 772
Distance from route: On route
Cost: £60 (incl pack lunch) - double room, shared bath room

Comments:
A very warm welcome with tea and cake on arrival. Lovely hosts and a great breakfast.

3.Askrigg
Thornsgill House, Moor Road, Askrigg, Leyburn DL8 3HH

Contact:
Wendy Turner
Tel: 01969 650617
Web: www.thornsgill.co.uk
Grid Ref: SD 949 912
Distance from route: On route
Cost: £62 - double, en-suite room

Comments:
Lovely large clean room. Welcomed by Wendy's parents who were looking after the B&B. Tea and biscuits on arrival.

4.Reeth
Ivy Cottage, Reeth Green, Reeth, Richmond DL11 6SF

Contact:
Terry Hill and Hannah Woodard
Tel: 01748 884418
Web: www.ivycottagereeth.co.uk
Grid Ref: SE 039 993
Distance from route: On route
Cost: £55 - twin room, separate private bathroom

Comments:
Small, clean comfortable room with large separate bathroom. Also run as a tea room during the day.

5.West Burton
Fox and Hounds Inn, West Burton, North Yorkshire DL8 4JY

Contact:
Andrew Landau
Tel: 01969 663111
Web: www.fhinn.co.uk
Grid Ref: SE 016 866
Distance from route: On route
Cost: £65 - double, en-suite room

Comments:
Very friendly staff. Large room set in the courtyard behind the pub. Couldn't be more on route!

6.Kettlewell
Littlebeck, The Green, Kettlewell, Skipton BD23 5RD

Contact:
Paul and Caroline Hatton
Tel: 01756 760378
Web: www.little-beck.co.uk
Grid Ref: SD 970 722
Distance from route: On route
Cost: £68 - double, ensuite room

Comments:
A lovely B&B. Very smart spotless room, with very comfortable bed. Tea and cake sitting by the stream on arrival.