Day 2 - Buckden to Askrigg

14.5 miles, 8 1/2 hours (including pub visits)




We set off from Romany Cottage after a very good breakfast at 9.30 in bright sunshine. The path on birks fell that we had arrived on was clearly visible across the valley.



The path headed steeply up on a stoney track out of Buckden through Rakes Wood, lined by patches of primroses. There were great views along Wharfedale towards Hubberholme.





As we progressed higher the open hillside provded more extensive views of Upper Wharfedale.









The path levels off as it turns away from Wharfedale, following high above Cray Gill.






We took a short, steep, slippery detour down to Cray to cross Cray Gill via stepping stones to reach the White Lion pub.





5.White Lion Inn, Cray - 10:30am

Too early in the day, the pub wasn't open


From the pub we walked up the road for a short while rather than climbing back up the slippery path. Cray Gill was flowing well from the rain the previous day and provided a good display of little waterfalls.






Leaving the road, the path climbed steadily up Gilbert Lane track, a good bridleway over Stake Moss. It was very quiet and remote here, with nothing but moor all around.






After passing over the top of Stake Moss we left the track and exposed moorland to head along a grassy path towards Shaw Gate Gill and Cragdale. It was easy pleasant walking as the path was clear and firm. Though still warm and sunny, distant views were starting to become hazy.


We descended into Raydale, passing through the small village of Stalling Busk. There were good views down towards Semer Water.







The path from Stalling Busk took us past the ruined 17th century church. We stopped to have look around, but didn't linger long as it was very busy with a large walking group.

This section of the path around the lake was very enjoyable. The banks were covered with large numbers of flowers, including Primroses, Celandines and Violets. The narrow path passed through tunnels of trees with the occasional open view across the lake made a very good place to stop for our packed lunch.




Seeing such a large expanse of water in the dales was quite different to what we had seen so far on the route. Leaving Semer Water behind we followed down the River Bain which showed signs of recent flooding. Parts of the path would have been impassable judging by the height of debris washed up against the fences and stiles. Fortunately we had no problems.





As we reached Bainbridge the river had doubled in size. We joined the road to walk into the village, passing a large green. As this was Bank Holiday Monday the roads were very busy with passing motorbikes and cars, quite a startling change from the peace and quiet of the moors earlier in the day.





6.Rose and Crown, Bainbridge - 3:30pm

Sat outside overlooking the green. A nice, very old pub with a smokey coal fire burning inside.







Retracing our route back out of Bainbridge, we climbed up to Brough Scar and walked along a lovely path in woods high above the Ure Valley. Here we saw a deer in the trees, dashing away ahead of us.





7. Victoria Arms, Worton - 5:00pm

A very unusual pub with lots of mounted animal heads. A small bar set in a corner of the farmhouse.






We returned through Worton village and took the path alongside the River Ure via Nappa Mill to Nappa Hall. There wasn't much of the hall to be seen from the path, but the subsequent approach to Askrigg through the traditional Dales fields was lovely.







Askrigg is a really idyllic Dales village. It was used as the location for Darrowby in All Creatures Great and Small. It boasts a rather grand church in the centre of the village.


Our bed and breakfast for the night was Thornsgill House where we received a warm welcome with tea and biscuits.







8.Kings Arms, Askrigg - 8:30pm

Very smart pub with several original features. Very comfy restaurant with excellent food.
Featured in All Creatures Great and Small as the 'Drovers Arms'






9.Crown Inn, Askrigg - 10:00pm

Nice traditional beamed pub. Good selection of beer.

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