Yorkshire Dales Inn Way 2008

Introduction

This is a photo guide to the Yorkshire Dales Inn Way which we walked in May 2008.

This page contains full details of all stages, or you can use the links on the right to view each individual stage. We have also collected together details of the accommodation we stayed in.

We hope it will be of some use to those who may be planning to do the walk themselves, or encourage others to give it a try.

Please enjoy our report, and sign our guestbook or leave comments.

Rachael & Mark.

Day 1 - Grassington to Buckden

14.5 miles, 8 1/2 hours (including pub visits)

We arrived in Grassington on Saturday afternoon after a busy day visiting friends in York on the way up from Suffolk. Our evening was spent having a meal in the Devonshire Arms, the first of the 26 pubs. After a good nights sleep and a filling breakfast at Springroyd House B&B we were fully refreshed to begin our walk.

We set off at 9.30 from the market square and headed up the hill and out of the village, following the well trodden route of the Dales Way. As we reached the second field a few spots of rain began so out came the waterproofs.

Grassington disappeared quickly behind us, swallowed up by the mist. The area of limestone pavement was brightened up with the occasional daffodill still in flower.

We soon felt we had entered the heart of the Dales landscape. As we rounded the edge of Grass Wood there were good views of the limestone escarpment. From here the path followed high above Dib Beck with the valley dropping quickly away below into the ravine.

We took a more gradual descent to reach Conistone.

Conistone is a lovely little village with limestone cottages surrounding a tall maypole in the centre. It was raining more steadily by the time we got here, but that didn't deter from its prettiness.

We crossed the bridge over the River Wharfe and walked through the meadows of the flat valley floor with Kilnsey Crag dominating the view ahead.

1.Tennant Arms, Kilnsey - 11:00am

Comfortable friendly spacious bar. We enjoyed a cup of coffee.

The route then took us along a stretch of road past Kilnsey Crag and on into Littondale.

Leaving the road behind we returned to the riverside meadows as we approached Hawkswick.

We saw lots of Swaledale sheep and lambs along our walk. They would often stop and watch us as we passed by, some even posed for the camera!

We crossed the River Skirfare into the pretty hamlet of Hawkswick. There was then a pleasant walk along the river through the meadows into Arncliffe village.

2.The Falcon, Arncliffe - 1:00pm

Interesting and unusual pub. A very small bar with beer served from a jug. It was very busy on this wet day but we squeezed on to a bench in the hallway and enjoyed a ham and cheese roll.
This was also the original Woolpack Inn from Emmerdale.

Refreshed from our beer and roll we continued along Littondale passing Scoska Wood, following the river. The water level was very low, clearly showing the limestone river bed.

3.Queens Arms, Litton - 2:50pm

A very cosy pub with low beams. Brews their own range of real ales. We tried the Litton Ale, and Leading Light.

There was a steady climb out of Litton on a clear bridle track headed up towards the summit of Birks Fell. This was the hardest part of the days walk. Rather than being rewarded by expanding views of Littondale, they became less and less as we progressed into mist.

The final section of the day was a descent into Wharfedale to reach Buckden. The initial clear cairned path gave way to more gentle route across the moor lower down, eventually reaching a track leading to the road.

Our Bed and Breakfast for the night was at Romany Cottage with Gwen and Tim Berry. We had stayed here previously on our Dales Way walk.

4.Buck Inn, Buckden - 7:30pm

A spacious pub with lots of seating areas. Good basic pub food.

Day 2 - Buckden to Askrigg

14.5 miles, 8 1/2 hours (including pub visits)

We set off from Romany Cottage after a very good breakfast at 9.30 in bright sunshine. The path on birks fell that we had arrived on was clearly visible across the valley.

The path headed steeply up on a stoney track out of Buckden through Rakes Wood, lined by patches of primroses. There were great views along Wharfedale towards Hubberholme.

As we progressed higher the open hillside provded more extensive views of Upper Wharfedale.

The path levels off as it turns away from Wharfedale, following high above Cray Gill.

We took a short, steep, slippery detour down to Cray to cross Cray Gill via stepping stones to reach the White Lion pub.

5.White Lion Inn, Cray - 10:30am

Too early in the day, the pub wasn't open

From the pub we walked up the road for a short while rather than climbing back up the slippery path. Cray Gill was flowing well from the rain the previous day and provided a good display of little waterfalls.

Leaving the road, the path climbed steadily up Gilbert Lane track, a good bridleway over Stake Moss. It was very quiet and remote here, with nothing but moor all around.

After passing over the top of Stake Moss we left the track and exposed moorland to head along a grassy path towards Shaw Gate Gill and Cragdale. It was easy pleasant walking as the path was clear and firm. Though still warm and sunny, distant views were starting to become hazy.

We descended into Raydale, passing through the small village of Stalling Busk. There were good views down towards Semer Water.

The path from Stalling Busk took us past the ruined 17th century church. We stopped to have look around, but didn't linger long as it was very busy with a large walking group.

This section of the path around the lake was very enjoyable. The banks were covered with large numbers of flowers, including Primroses, Celandines and Violets. The narrow path passed through tunnels of trees with the occasional open view across the lake made a very good place to stop for our packed lunch.

Seeing such a large expanse of water in the dales was quite different to what we had seen so far on the route. Leaving Semer Water behind we followed down the River Bain which showed signs of recent flooding. Parts of the path would have been impassable judging by the height of debris washed up against the fences and stiles. Fortunately we had no problems.

As we reached Bainbridge the river had doubled in size. We joined the road to walk into the village, passing a large green. As this was Bank Holiday Monday the roads were very busy with passing motorbikes and cars, quite a startling change from the peace and quiet of the moors earlier in the day.

6.Rose and Crown, Bainbridge - 3:30pm

Sat outside overlooking the green. A nice, very old pub with a smokey coal fire burning inside.

Retracing our route back out of Bainbridge, we climbed up to Brough Scar and walked along a lovely path in woods high above the Ure Valley. Here we saw a deer in the trees, dashing away ahead of us.

7. Victoria Arms, Worton - 5:00pm

A very unusual pub with lots of mounted animal heads. A small bar set in a corner of the farmhouse.

We returned through Worton village and took the path alongside the River Ure via Nappa Mill to Nappa Hall. There wasn't much of the hall to be seen from the path, but the subsequent approach to Askrigg through the traditional Dales fields was lovely.

Askrigg is a really idyllic Dales village. It was used as the location for Darrowby in All Creatures Great and Small. It boasts a rather grand church in the centre of the village.

Our bed and breakfast for the night was Thornsgill House where we received a warm welcome with tea and biscuits.

8.Kings Arms, Askrigg - 8:30pm

Very smart pub with several original features. Very comfy restaurant with excellent food.
Featured in All Creatures Great and Small as the 'Drovers Arms'

9.Crown Inn, Askrigg - 10:00pm

Nice traditional beamed pub. Good selection of beer.

Day 3 - Askrigg to Reeth

13.5 miles, 8 hours (including pub visits)

We spent a little while having a final look around Askrigg in the morning sunshine. At 10am we set off up the very steep road out of the village, with frequent stops looking back across Wensleydale towards Addlebrough hill.

The final climb brought us up over a cattle grid and the road levelled off onto Askrigg Common. With views all round of the open wild moorland it no longer felt as though we were walking along a road, especially with so little traffic.

The road became a gated track as it branched off along the top of Oxnop Scar and over Satron Moor. Ahead we had our first glimpses of Swaledale.

As we began to descend, the views opened out down over Oxnop Gill and further along into Swaledale.

A friendly Swaledale lamb in Swaledale.

As we descended into Swaledale there were great views up the valley towards Muker and Thwaite. The valley was a patchwork of little fields with numerous hay barns dotted among them.

We crossed the River Swale over the picturesque Ivelet Bridge, a tall packhorse bridge.

The path took us through a series of fields with narrow gated wall gaps on the approach to Gunnerside. Some of these were a tight squeeze with large bags.

By now the day had really warmed up and we were looking forward to a nice drink at the pub in Gunnerside.

10.Kings Head, Gunnerside - 1:00pm

Unfortunately not open for lunch today. We stamped our log book and continued on.

The sun was shining well which provided great views back across the river towards Gunnerside as we continued down Swaledale. Shortly afterwards we stopped for our packed lunch and to admire the scene.

Fording Haverdale Beck was quite tricky. The water wasn't too high, but the surface underneath was extremely slippery. Walking poles saved us from falling over!

We climbed up through a series of fields and rejoined the road at Birks End Farm. After a short while we were back on to the moors where there were continuous cries from the lapwings all around. This was lovely walking along the contours high above Swaledale.

We sat on the moor side and enjoyed the sunshine and fantastic views for almost an hour before continuing down in to Reeth.

After a thoroughly enjoyable day we arrived in Reeth at 6:00pm and headed to Ivy Cottage, our B&B for the night.